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Bill Robertie

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The Tempo Hit

Cash game. Center cube. White on roll.

Position 1: White to play 5-2.

Position 2: White to play 4-2.

In backgammon, most hits are done for one of two reasons: to gain ground in the race, or to attack a key point. A rarer (but still important) use of the hit is a defensive idea called the tempo play. Here the plan is to prevent your opponent from using his whole roll to do something good. By hitting (usually in your home board), you force him to spend half his roll coming in from the bar, so he’s not in position to do something devastating elsewhere on the board.

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When You’re Desperate…

Cash game. White owns the cube. White on roll.

White to play 5-3.

A lot of backgammon positions are pretty simple: the right play is either forced or completely obvious. Many others involve a clear decision between two very different alternatives. These problems may be hard to solve, but at least the choices are clear.

Some positions, however, involve a lot of possible plays, all of which are somewhat reasonable. These positions can be very tricky, and one of the dangers is overlooking the best play altogether while sorting through the wealth of possibilities. Be alert, and try to enumerate all the plays before starting to rank them.

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Taking Your Last Chance

Cash game. Black owns the cube. White on roll.

White to play 5-1.

One of the most dangerous positions in backgammon is that of the out-timed and rapidly deteriorating position. This problem is a good example. These overstretched positions usually arise when one side (here White) has built a great front position quickly, but at the cost of leaving one or more stragglers disconnected from the main force.

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Late Game Blitzes

Cash game, White owns the cube. White on roll.

(a) Should White double?

(b) If doubled, should Black take, drop, or beaver?

Among the many relatively unexplored position types in backgammon is one I call the “Late Game Blitz”. The general idea is pretty simple. One side has a blitz in progress. The other side, unlike the case in the basic opening blitz, has some sort of structure in place, which might range from a few scattered points to an imposing five-prime. The blitzer has some number of checkers to extricate from behind this structure before he can claim the game.

These Late Game Blitz positions are relatively common and often incredibly difficult. Many points are swung with errors in this type of game, and the errors are often very large. If you’re looking to work hard to improve your play and results, these are good positions to focus on. The ability to handle these positions well will make a big difference in your play.

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Split or slot in the Opening

Cash game, White owns the cube. White on roll.

White to play 2-1.

Slotting to make a key point and splitting your back checkers are two tactical ideas that dominate early-game play when more obvious choices like hitting blots and making points aren’t available. The 1970s and 1980s were the heyday of slotting. The preferred method of winning a game was to build an imposing prime (often by slotting points, then covering) and follow it with a crushing double. The older method, taking the points you were given and looking for a chance to escape your back checkers, was seen as antiquated and wimpy, a game plan only suited for geezers playing in the park.

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Hit Loose or Split in the Opening

Cash game, center cube. White on roll.

White to play 3-1.

Here’s the same position from the last blog post, but this time White has a different roll to play: 3-1.

Here the choice is a little different from before. The only available hit, Bar/24 6/3*, is now a horrible blunder. It has all the disadvantages of the hits in the last post, but in addition it leaves White stuck on the 24-point, just when White needs to be taking some small risks to get an advanced anchor in Black’s board.

Instead, White needs to enter with the three, Bar/22, which gives him both an escaping number (6) and a threat to make an anchor, and then consider whether 24/23 or 22/21 is his best ace. The former is a little safer since White avoids moving to the point Black most wants to make next (Black’s 4-point). The latter play moves directly to that point, hoping to later grab the best anchor available.

Either play might be right depending on circumstances. Here the circumstances favor moving to the 21-point. To see why, we’ll use a frequently handy trick in these sorts of positions. Find Black’s best non-double that attacks or advances his prime, and see how that number plays on the other side of the board. The right play will often duplicate this number.

After Bar/22/21, Black’s best non-double for advancing his prime is clearly 4-2, which plays 8/4* 6/4. But on the other side of the board, 4-2 is also a great shot, making the 20-point anchor. Eureka — duplication!

Now consider Bar/22 24/23. Black’s best non-double for moving his prime is 5-3, which he would play 8/3* 5/3. But on the other side of the board, 5-3 is pretty useless. Hence the 24/23 play creates a new great number for Black, which isn’t the right idea. So White should just play the simple Bar/22/21.