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Bill Robertie

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Aggressive Early Doubles

Cash game. Center cube. White on roll.

Part (a): Should White double? If White doubles, should Black take, drop, or beaver?

Part (b): Should White double? If White doubles, should Black take, drop, or beaver?

 

When contemplating a middle game double, don’t make the mistake of looking only at your position. Remember to look just as carefully at the weaknesses in your opponent’s position. It may be his weakness, rather than your strength, that gives you a good double.

Part (a) is a perfect case in point. White has escaped his back checkers and built a little structure, while Black has grabbed your 5-point. In most positions of this general type, White’s advantages wouldn’t even add up to an initial double. But now look at Black’s position:

> His back men are split and vulnerable to potential blitzing rolls like 66, 55, and 44, both now and on subsequent rolls. If his two back checkers were anchored on the 23-point or the 22-point, the position wouldn’t be a double.

> His front position is still chaotic and will be for a couple of turns. If he had a small 4-prime or even a good board with, say, the 4-point and 5-point made, he’d have a threat to contain any checker hit on the next couple of turns, and White wouldn’t have a double.

But with both these weaknesses, Black’s game is toothless enough so that White has a very solid double. Black still has a clear take of course.

In Part (b), White is off to a decent start. He’s got a good defensive anchor, while on the offensive side he has – well – something. He’s got some great points slotted, and next turn he might actually cover one or two of them.

The key to the position is not White’s game but Black’s. While White has something, Black has a bit less than nothing. No points, just blots. Something versus nothing is a good prescription for an early double, especially if the defender doesn’t have an anchor. Without an anchor, there will always be variations where things go terribly wrong and White’s messy position turns into a powerful blitz. Did you stop to guess what White’s cubeless gammon chances were in Part (b)? If you did, did you realize they’re over 25%? Numbers like that almost always guarantee not just an initial double, but a strong and mandatory initial double. White’s checkers aren’t just passive slots. They’re also potential attackers, which can be activated by a single good sequence. Couple that with a rock-solid defensive anchor, and White has a great double.

Clear take, of course. There are plenty of variations where things don’t go so well and Black recovers quickly.

The Tempo Hit

Cash game. Center cube. White on roll.

Position 1: White to play 5-2.

Position 2: White to play 4-2.

In backgammon, most hits are done for one of two reasons: to gain ground in the race, or to attack a key point. A rarer (but still important) use of the hit is a defensive idea called the tempo play. Here the plan is to prevent your opponent from using his whole roll to do something good. By hitting (usually in your home board), you force him to spend half his roll coming in from the bar, so he’s not in position to do something devastating elsewhere on the board.

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When You’re Desperate…

Cash game. White owns the cube. White on roll.

White to play 5-3.

A lot of backgammon positions are pretty simple: the right play is either forced or completely obvious. Many others involve a clear decision between two very different alternatives. These problems may be hard to solve, but at least the choices are clear.

Some positions, however, involve a lot of possible plays, all of which are somewhat reasonable. These positions can be very tricky, and one of the dangers is overlooking the best play altogether while sorting through the wealth of possibilities. Be alert, and try to enumerate all the plays before starting to rank them.

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Taking Your Last Chance

Cash game. Black owns the cube. White on roll.

White to play 5-1.

One of the most dangerous positions in backgammon is that of the out-timed and rapidly deteriorating position. This problem is a good example. These overstretched positions usually arise when one side (here White) has built a great front position quickly, but at the cost of leaving one or more stragglers disconnected from the main force.

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Late Game Blitzes

Cash game, White owns the cube. White on roll.

(a) Should White double?

(b) If doubled, should Black take, drop, or beaver?

Among the many relatively unexplored position types in backgammon is one I call the “Late Game Blitz”. The general idea is pretty simple. One side has a blitz in progress. The other side, unlike the case in the basic opening blitz, has some sort of structure in place, which might range from a few scattered points to an imposing five-prime. The blitzer has some number of checkers to extricate from behind this structure before he can claim the game.

These Late Game Blitz positions are relatively common and often incredibly difficult. Many points are swung with errors in this type of game, and the errors are often very large. If you’re looking to work hard to improve your play and results, these are good positions to focus on. The ability to handle these positions well will make a big difference in your play.

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Split or slot in the Opening

Cash game, White owns the cube. White on roll.

White to play 2-1.

Slotting to make a key point and splitting your back checkers are two tactical ideas that dominate early-game play when more obvious choices like hitting blots and making points aren’t available. The 1970s and 1980s were the heyday of slotting. The preferred method of winning a game was to build an imposing prime (often by slotting points, then covering) and follow it with a crushing double. The older method, taking the points you were given and looking for a chance to escape your back checkers, was seen as antiquated and wimpy, a game plan only suited for geezers playing in the park.

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