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The premier source for backgammon books, lessons & blog problems.
“I’ve just finished Chapter 6 of Volume II. I must say that if you aren’t the greatest BG player who ever lived, you certainly are the greatest writer. It’s not even close. Your explanations are so clear and logical that anyone can and will improve by studying them.”

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Backgammon Problems: Early Game

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Split or slot in the Opening

Cash game, White owns the cube. White on roll.

White to play 2-1.

Slotting to make a key point and splitting your back checkers are two tactical ideas that dominate early-game play when more obvious choices like hitting blots and making points aren’t available. The 1970s and 1980s were the heyday of slotting. The preferred method of winning a game was to build an imposing prime (often by slotting points, then covering) and follow it with a crushing double. The older method, taking the points you were given and looking for a chance to escape your back checkers, was seen as antiquated and wimpy, a game plan only suited for geezers playing in the park.

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Hit Loose or Split in the Opening

Cash game, center cube. White on roll.

White to play 3-1.

Here’s the same position from the last blog post, but this time White has a different roll to play: 3-1.

Here the choice is a little different from before. The only available hit, Bar/24 6/3*, is now a horrible blunder. It has all the disadvantages of the hits in the last post, but in addition it leaves White stuck on the 24-point, just when White needs to be taking some small risks to get an advanced anchor in Black’s board.

Instead, White needs to enter with the three, Bar/22, which gives him both an escaping number (6) and a threat to make an anchor, and then consider whether 24/23 or 22/21 is his best ace. The former is a little safer since White avoids moving to the point Black most wants to make next (Black’s 4-point). The latter play moves directly to that point, hoping to later grab the best anchor available.

Either play might be right depending on circumstances. Here the circumstances favor moving to the 21-point. To see why, we’ll use a frequently handy trick in these sorts of positions. Find Black’s best non-double that attacks or advances his prime, and see how that number plays on the other side of the board. The right play will often duplicate this number.

After Bar/22/21, Black’s best non-double for advancing his prime is clearly 4-2, which plays 8/4* 6/4. But on the other side of the board, 4-2 is also a great shot, making the 20-point anchor. Eureka — duplication!

Now consider Bar/22 24/23. Black’s best non-double for moving his prime is 5-3, which he would play 8/3* 5/3. But on the other side of the board, 5-3 is pretty useless. Hence the 24/23 play creates a new great number for Black, which isn’t the right idea. So White should just play the simple Bar/22/21.

Doubling an Early Position

Cash game, center cube. White on roll.


(a) Should White double?

(b) If doubled, should Black take, drop, or beaver?

 

Early game doubles cover a wide variety of positions, but in general they can be spotted by analyzing three key aspects of the game: race, position, and threats. Many years ago, Joe Sylvester (a very great player in the 80s and 90s, now somewhat inactive) coined a simple rule: if you’re ahead in two out of three of these aspects, you have a double. Your opponent may or may not have a take. Let’s evaluate these three features of Problem 12 and see what they tell us.

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Off to an Early Lead

White is off to a good start in this position. He’s neatly filled in his 3, 4, and 5-points, making a strong home board. Black has only managed to escape one back checker, getting it as far as his 8-point.

Money game, center cube, White on roll.

(a) Should White double? If he does, should Black take?

(b) Assume White doubles and Black takes. How should White play the following rolls:

6-6
4-4
2-2
6-4
6-2
4-3

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Playing a Random 6 from the Bar

White – Pips 168 (=)

Black – Pips 168 (=)
Black to Play 6-2

This position shows a typically awkward moment in the early game. Black’s game is temporarily a little loose, and now he throws a 2-6 from the bar.

Sometimes a six from the bar will allow us to do something obvious and good, like hitting a blot or building a point. When we can’t do anything good, we’re usually faced with a choice among several unappetizing alternatives. That’s the case here. We have four legal sixes: 8/2, 13/7, 21/15, and 22/16. None look great, but we have to pick one. Let’s set up some guidelines and see if they can lead us to the least unappealing six.

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