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The Tempo Hit

Cash game. Center cube. White on roll.

Position 1: White to play 5-2.

Position 2: White to play 4-2.

In backgammon, most hits are done for one of two reasons: to gain ground in the race, or to attack a key point. A rarer (but still important) use of the hit is a defensive idea called the tempo play. Here the plan is to prevent your opponent from using his whole roll to do something good. By hitting (usually in your home board), you force him to spend half his roll coming in from the bar, so he’s not in position to do something devastating elsewhere on the board.

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When You’re Desperate…

Cash game. White owns the cube. White on roll.

White to play 5-3.

A lot of backgammon positions are pretty simple: the right play is either forced or completely obvious. Many others involve a clear decision between two very different alternatives. These problems may be hard to solve, but at least the choices are clear.

Some positions, however, involve a lot of possible plays, all of which are somewhat reasonable. These positions can be very tricky, and one of the dangers is overlooking the best play altogether while sorting through the wealth of possibilities. Be alert, and try to enumerate all the plays before starting to rank them.

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Hit Loose or Split in the Opening

Cash game, center cube. White on roll.

White to play 3-1.

Here’s the same position from the last blog post, but this time White has a different roll to play: 3-1.

Here the choice is a little different from before. The only available hit, Bar/24 6/3*, is now a horrible blunder. It has all the disadvantages of the hits in the last post, but in addition it leaves White stuck on the 24-point, just when White needs to be taking some small risks to get an advanced anchor in Black’s board.

Instead, White needs to enter with the three, Bar/22, which gives him both an escaping number (6) and a threat to make an anchor, and then consider whether 24/23 or 22/21 is his best ace. The former is a little safer since White avoids moving to the point Black most wants to make next (Black’s 4-point). The latter play moves directly to that point, hoping to later grab the best anchor available.

Either play might be right depending on circumstances. Here the circumstances favor moving to the 21-point. To see why, we’ll use a frequently handy trick in these sorts of positions. Find Black’s best non-double that attacks or advances his prime, and see how that number plays on the other side of the board. The right play will often duplicate this number.

After Bar/22/21, Black’s best non-double for advancing his prime is clearly 4-2, which plays 8/4* 6/4. But on the other side of the board, 4-2 is also a great shot, making the 20-point anchor. Eureka — duplication!

Now consider Bar/22 24/23. Black’s best non-double for moving his prime is 5-3, which he would play 8/3* 5/3. But on the other side of the board, 5-3 is pretty useless. Hence the 24/23 play creates a new great number for Black, which isn’t the right idea. So White should just play the simple Bar/22/21.

Priming Games: Action versus Timing

 

The next position is an interesting problem with a few non-standard elements. On the one hand, it’s a prime versus prime problem; both sides have 5-point primes, and both sides have some escaping to do. On the other hand, it’s an action play problem. White is on the bar shooting at a couple of blots, and a lot hinges on whether he hits or not next turn.

Money game, center cube, White on roll.

Should White double? What should Black do if White doubles?

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